Craftsman Decor Craftsman Furniture Mission Furniture Craftsman Style Wood Furniture Craftsman Bungalow Chairs & Recliners Ottomans Arts And Crafts Movement Forward The craftsman Collection pays tribute to the individuality of the Arts and Craft movement by incorporating a signature inlay (made with Cherry, Ebony, Walnut, and Maple) on all it's pieces. Each piece is then serial numbered and signed by the craftsman; giving you a one-of-a-kind piece. Collection includes living, dining, and Bed room pieces, with a choice of fabric or leather, made in Quater Sawn White Oak or Cherry, to your finish choice.Sometimes called morris chair (although wrongly in this case), and popular to this day, the "genre" of "designer" furniture was originally kickstarted  by William Morris during the Aesthetic movement in England.( /wiki/M... . ) Your chair however - is more of an Arts and Crafts style that came in fashion around 1880 and lasted until 1910.  /ide... ) of the "Arts and Crafts" movement;

made similar designs, and also became famous for evolving this form of chair in the United States. metal folding chairs los angelesMany, many, companies have produced and reproduced this type of furniture over the past 150 years. cheap table and chairs brisbaneSometimes it is called "arts and crafts" or "mission" furniture - terms that you can use, to widen your search, on the internet for more information. wedding chair covers central scotlandFashion was very fluid at the close of this century and it is common to see Aesthetic blended with Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau motifs.rocking chair for toddler room

First you will want to scan the entire chair for the "maker's mark" usually found underneath the chair in discrete  location. cheap plastic chairs singaporeIt might be in the form of a paper label, or a nameplate, or a"brand" burnt lightly into the wood. used desk chairs san antonioIf you are lucky to find one - then the mystery is solved. garden swing chair canopy replacementIf there is no mark then it will be almost impossible to discover who made it unless there is "hard ware" on the chair, like a metal reclining mechanism. buy folding chairs in bulk ukSometimes these have a patent number and date; leather tub chairs and sofas

that you might trace back to the manufacturer. Many of these chairs were built by home hobbyists in their wood-working shops- and a hand made chair will generally be worth more - than a factory made one. To identify a hand-made chair; you will wand to look for "mortice and tenon" or "through tenon" construction; or even dowels (lower quality). Sometimes they are constructed to look hand-made at the factory by counter-sinking the screws holding it together; and concealing them with a dowel or tenon plug. An honestly hand crafted chair won't have these - but might have pencil lines and scribe marks left by the carpenter. Also look for hand-saw; or chisel tool marks. these tell-tale marks will confirm hand construction. If the chair was made by one of the Stickley factories - and is hand-made of the period (arts and crafts period) then it can be very valuable. If it was hand made by an honest craftsman and of the period it will still be quite desirable as well. If there is no maker's mark or factory label;

it will be difficult to attribute - especially with no iron-clad provenance. Here is a site you might contact for more information. 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 3’ 4 – caps to fit on the end of the dowels 1 – 1×2 at 6’ 2 – 1×2 at 8’ 4 – 1×3 at 8’ 1 – 1×4 at 6’ 1 – 1×6 at 6’ 1 – 1×6 at 8’ 2 – 3×3 posts at 3’ (or make your own by laminating 2 – 2x4s together then squaring and ripping to size on the table saw) 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 1-1/4” screws or 1-1/4″ Brad Nails Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional 2 – 1×6 at 25-5/16” – Back Legs 2 – 3×3 posts at 27-1/4” – Front Legs 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 20” – Upper Side Frame 2 – 1×6 at 20” – Lower Side Frame 6 – 1×2 at 7” – Side Frame Spindles 1 – 1×6 at 24” – Front Stretcher 1 – 1×2 at 24” – Seat Frame Back 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Frame Front

2 – 1×2 at 20-3/16” – Seat Frame Sides 1 – 1×2 at 19-5/16” – Seat Frame Support 2 – 1×4 at 33-3/4” – Arm Rests 6 – 1×3 at 24” – Seat Slats 2 – 1×2 at 24-1/2” – Back Frame 6 – 1×3 at 22-1/2” – Back Frame Slats 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 28” – Seat Pivot & Back Adjustment Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques.

If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site. There are several pieces that will have angles cut in the ends or bevels cut on the edges. It may be easiest to mark all of the pieces as they are cut. Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side frames, the side spindles, and the front legs.

The top of the back legs and the front legs will have a 5° angle cut in the top edge. The top frame pieces will be 1x3s that are ripped to 3-1/4” wide, then tapered to 1-1/2” at one end. The taper can be cut using a jigsaw or by using a tapering jig on the table saw. When drilling pocket holes in these two pieces, they will be treated as a right and a left – mark the pieces accordingly. Using the ¾” paddle bit or hole saw, drill a hole in the back legs as indicated in the drawing. There will be a right piece and a left piece! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame pieces, the lower frame pieces, and the spindles. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside of the frames will be flush with the inside face of the front 3×3 legs. Don’t forget – there will be a right frame and a left frame! Cut the pieces for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The inside face of the stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the front legs. Cut the pieces for the seat frame. The entire seat will slant to the back by 5°. The front and back pieces will have a 5° bevel cut along one long edge while the side and support frame pieces will have a 5° angle cut in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end of the front frame piece and the center support, then drill pocket holes in the back end only of the side frame pieces. There will be a right and a left side frame piece! Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the lower side frame pieces and the front stretcher as shown – the front is located 2-1/4” down from the top of the front stretcher and 4” down from the top of the side stretcher. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. Cut the pieces for the arm rests. Secure to the front legs, back legs, and upper frame piece using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails. The holes in the back legs to adjust the position of the back will be drilled last. They are not shown in the drawing because they have to be positioned in an arc. To mark the holes, the back should go no farther forward than the front edge of the back leg (basically straight up and down). Mark through the upper hole in the back side frame. For the lowest reclining position, the back edge of the frame should not go any farther back than the back edge of the leg. The center position will be located somewhere in between the forward and back position. Drill the holes using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw. Cut the remaining ¾” dowel rod. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the upper holes in the back frame, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on ONE end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out – the other end will need to remain free for reclining adjustment.