Door zijn unieke vormgeving en innovatieve constructie zijn de mogelijkheden van dit duurzame krukje eindeloos. De Dutch Design Chair Retro dient als krukje, nachtkastje of bijzettafeltje. Dankzij de 'Retro look' met vrolijke gekleurde accenten haalt u echt een toevoeging voor uw interieur in huis. Het krukje heeft een originele verpakking waardoor het erg leuk is om aan iemand cadeau te geven. De Dutch Design Chair is gemaakt van karton en is op een ingenieuze wijze in elkaar gevouwen waardoor het geschikt is voor een gewicht tot wel 200 kg. De krukjes zijn FSC-gecertificeerd waaruit blijkt dat het karton afkomstig is uit verantwoord beheerde bossen. Alle krukjes hebben iets te maken met de wereld of de natuur. Ieder design brengt een andere sfeer met zich mee zodat u altijd een krukje kunt vinden dat bij uw interieur past.Dutch designer Christian Heikoop has created a flat-pack furniture collection that is assembled in the same way as a tent. Currently on display at Dutch Design Week, the range is based on retro camping equipment.

Designed to be easily and quickly put together without tools or screws, the framework of each piece is made from metal tubes that slide into stitched leather sleeves. The Glissade chair has 12 pieces, including a curved metal rod that forms the back and a rectangular tube that supports the seat and front legs. Once assembled the chair has a low back and wide seat, with the leather appearing as if it's been shrink-wrapped to the frame. "I really like the way that camping equipment uses such a select amount of easily accessible materials that are very consistently applied throughout the designs," Heikoop told Dezeen. "This way there is such an emphasis on the connection: if it's a screw, a weld or a hinge." The range also includes a pair of benches and a table, each covered in leather of various colours. Heikoop graduated from Design Academy Eindhoven this year and has completed several other projects, including a series of paper masks for fashion label Kenzo.

"A lot of flat-packed systems can be intimidating and burden you from actually putting them together, without your toolbox," added the designer. "Creating a straightforward system without any screws, fixings, tools, where you'd only need your hands, takes away this burden," he continued. "Instead it is drawing attention to the dialogue between two materials and their connecting aspect with each other."fold away chairs garden This year has seen several designers create fresh takes on flat-pack furniture, from a modular collection designed to rival Ikea in ease-of-assembly to a range of wooden furniture designed to last longer.chaise lounge chair for cheap Major design brands are also getting in on the act, with the Bouroullec brothers designing a customisable self-assembly sofa for Hay and Normann Copenhagen adding flat-pack lounge chairs to its range.office chair price in bangalore

The entire Glissade collection is on display at the Design Academy Eindhoven graduate exhibition at Dutch Design Week, which takes place from 22 to 30 October 2016. At 1stdibs, our mission is simple — to deliver our exclusive collection of unique items to discerning customers around the world. Backed by Benchmark Capital, 1stdibs brings together more than 1,500 of the most prestigious international dealers of antiques, vintage furniture and design, fine art, estate jewelry, vintage couture and fine homes, granting our customers instant access to luxury goods of the highest quality.chair and a half urban barn The interest and demand for vintage design has increased in recent years. baby swing chair indiaEspecially when it comes to affordable and high quality vintage design and furniture. bean bag chair in the night garden

In that market, Martin Aanraad and Etienne Feijns internationally acquired a decent position. A variety of collectors, enthusiasts, designers and museums, domestically and abroad have already found their way to Roosendaal. Mass Modern Design is founded by Martin Aanraad and Etienne Feijns. This collaboration is the result of our love for vintage pieces and excitement we have while looking for the right furniture. wood office chair pottery barnMassModernDesign is the extension of Museum quality gallery MidMod-Design which is founded by Etienne Feijns in 2008. tall patio chair cushionsWith our showroom where the two companies come together, we hope to inspire and please those who love quality furniture and exquisite interiors.best gaming chair pc 2015

Here at MassModernDesign we find quality very important. When the furniture comes in we fully check the structure, restore where needed, clean, upholster or refinish it when needed. We have a high quality standard to our furniture as we think the quality furniture we sell deserves the right treatment. So we only work with the best craft mans and materials, personally selected by us after years of working with this furniture. Buying format see all distance 2 miles 5 miles 10 miles 15 miles 20 miles 50 miles 75 miles 100 miles 150 miles 200 miles 500 miles 750 miles 1000 miles 1500 miles 2000 miles Delivery options see allHere are key elements of a genuine midcentury modern piece of furniture:Most midcentury pieces are made of solid teak, rosewood or walnut. You may find veneers in these species on tabletops and other flat surfaces, but that doesn’t mean it's not good.A true classic is rarely nailed or screwed. The Danish (who were at the forefront of this design) mastered the technique of fitting wood together using dowels and threaded bolts.

This makes them easily repairable. 3. The finish: Midcentury mod finishes are almost always natural, showing off the true beauty of the wood. Occasionally a piece may be painted a solid color such as black. We found this teak chair at a retro furniture store. Even though it looked shabby, the chair still had good bones. None of the wood was broken, and the denting and scratching on the surface were minor, less than 1/8 inch deep, which is crucial on a natural finish; if you can't sand out the damage, it will show through on the finished piece. Also, the chair had the original seat cushions, which meant it'd be easy to duplicate a new set of cushions. Remove the cushions and the loop springs that hold tension under the seat cushion. Fortunately the loops on our chair are in good shape — these can be the hardest part to replace on one of these chairs. When purchasing a chair to refurbish, make sure the loops are intact or at least get a steep discount on the price if they are missing.

We used Jasco brand stripper because it contains wax that will help keep the stripping vapors locked onto the surface of the wood longer. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. With a paintbrush, apply an even coat of stripper over the entire chair. Have water nearby in case of a mishap. Apply liberally and don't brush over areas that are already coated because it will break down the chemicals and they won't work as well. To speed up the process time and help the stripper along, cover the chair in black plastic garbage bags for about 20 minutes. It doesn't have to be completely sealed, but if you can fit the whole chair in a big bag, that is the best. After the 20 minutes, remove the bags and use a metal paint scraper to remove the finish and stripper from the chair. Use odorless mineral spirits and a plastic-bristle brush to scrub off the access stripper and finish. Mineral spirits will deactivate the stripper and if any got down into the pores of the wood, it will be safe to refinish over a trace amount.

It should be turning a bit white at this point, but don't worry; it can be sanded off later. You may ask why now and not earlier. Stripper is a bear to work with when you have nothing to grab, so keeping the chair intact while doing it makes the process a lot easier. Plus, it is easier to sand (with the grain) when in pieces. Separate the chair into as many pieces as you can easily take apart. Our chair has four pieces: a right side, left side, seat and back. This is where you make or break the project, so take your time and be methodical. Use 150-grit sandpaper on a palm sander and follow the contours of the chair. (Good sandpaper is worth the extra cost, so buy the good stuff. It will last longer and won't tear as quickly.) Sand everything evenly, and be careful not to "chatter" the sander on the edges, as it will leave marks on the wood you are trying to smooth out. If you get into a tight area, just leave it for hand sanding. Cut sandpaper into manageable squares. You should be able to get four squares out of each full-size sheet of sandpaper.

Fold each square in half and start working in the hard-to-reach areas that you couldn't get with the palm sander. Try to sand with the grain even if it means going in short strokes when butting up against a constricting area. Very Important: All of the sanding marks will show through on the finished piece. The key to a professional-looking job is in the sanding as much as in the finishing. To get the rich golden-orange color of the teak, apply a coat of teak oil. It will penetrate into the grain of the wood and seal it, and at the same time bring out the wood's natural color. Start by pouring a small amount from the can into a container that you can dip a brush into. Use a chip brush to spread the teak oil all over the chair pieces. Coat it thoroughly and let the oil stand for about 5 to 7 minutes (in warmer climates, maybe 3 or 4 minutes). Then wipe down all the pieces with a clean rag. Very Important: Be sure to remove all the excess teak oil or it will gum up and take days to dry.

Once it is thoroughly wiped down, let all of the pieces sit for at least 12 hours. At this point, there are two options. You can stop and just have a thin hard coat of the teak oil bring out the wood's natural beauty. You will have to re-apply another coat of teak oil every couple of years, or when you begin to see wear. If you keep up with it, you will not need to strip and refinish. This option will give you a much flatter finish look and is not for high-traffic usage. The second option is to spray lacquer on the piece to add a protective clear coating in a satin sheen. Although it is still permeable to liquids, you should get 15 years out of a finish like this. Spray on two to three coats of lacquer (we used Deft brand). Hold the can 8 to 10 inches from the surface and follow the contours of the chair. Don't stop in one spot; keep your hand moving in a fluid motion to get even coverage. Sand lightly between each coat with 320-grit sandpaper, just enough to knock down roughness in the finish, but do not sand through the layer of teak oil.